Friday, November 25, 2011

Review of Asus Radeon HD 5850 1GB GDDR5 Graphics Card

!±8± Review of Asus Radeon HD 5850 1GB GDDR5 Graphics Card

INTRODUCTION
As usual when a new generation of graphics cards are is released, the first cards out on the market are the high end cards. In this case the HD 5870 and HD 5850. Later these have been followed by the 5770 and 5750 and we will soon see some lower end versions coming out too.

The release of the HD 5800 series brought a couple of new technology innovations with it. The "ATI Eyefinity" is a technology which enables one single card to support up to 6 monitors. "ATI Stream" enables GPU accelerated calculations, OpenCL gives us parallel GPU-CPU processing. However, the most important update is the support for DirectX 11 which in itself incorporates full support of Windows 7. This time around, Microsoft promises that the update of the DirectX API means a direct increase of the ratio between the graphical quality and the use of system resources.

AMD says their new GPU can achieve 2.7 TFLOPS, which really doesn't say much about what the GPU performs like in real world (gaming) situations, but it does tell us that it is truly a very powerful data processor. The manufacturing technology is now down to 40nm, which should mean less power consumption and heat development.
Talking about the power consumption, AMD now promises that the max consumption will not exceed 190W in full load and in idle mode the card will not surpass 27W. If this is correct it would be a big improvement compared to their previous generation of cards.

ASUS EAH5850 SPECIFICATIONS
OK, enough rambling about all the new technologies and promises of the new AMD series, here are the hard facts of the Asus HD 5850 card:

ASUS EAH5850 (Radeon HD 5850)
GPU Radeon HD 5850
Manufacturing technology 40nm
Stream processors 1440
Texture units 72
ROPs 32
GPU speed 725MHz
Memory 1GB GDDR5
Memory speed 1000MHz (4Gbps)
Bus 256bits
Memory bandwidth 128GB/s
Cooling system Reference, double slot
Video exits D-Sub (adapter included)
2 DVI-I
HDMI
DisplayPort
Compatible with HDCP Yes
Compatibility with CrossFireX Yes
External power 2 x 6 pin PCIe
Maximum consumption 170W
Supported technologies DirectX 11, DirectX 10.1, Shader Model 4.1, UVD 2, ATI Stream, ATI PowerPlay, ATI Eyefinity, ASUS Splendid, ASUS Gamer OSD, ASUS Smart Doctor, Voltage Tweak

Asus hasn't added any physical alternations on this card; it is basically Asus' version of the generic AMD 5850. However Asus has a series of software tools which help us overclockers to reach the maximum potential of this card; the "Gamer OSD" and "Smart Doctor". This last application will be most useful since it allows us to play with the voltage of the core.

ASUS EAH5850, FIRST IMPRESSIONS
The card comes in a nice looking card board box with loads of aggressive printing on it. As is customary with graphics cards, ASUS pushes a lot on the overclocking tools. Also, the bundle (EAH5850/2DIS/1GD5) includes the game DIRT 2. When I opened the box, I almost got a little Apple feeling for a moment when I saw the black cover with the Asus logo in gold. Underneath the cover I found two boxes. The bigger box contained the graphics card itself, enfolded by a standard anti static plastic bag and protected by a white foam plastic material. The other box contained the accessories.

Except for the DIRT 2 game (digital download, no DVD), I wasn't overly impressed by the accessories; CDs with drivers and applications; a printed manual; a power adapter (2 molex to 1 x 6 pin PCIe), a DVI-VGA adapter and a CrossFireX bridge.

ASUS EAH5850 IN DETAIL
My first impression was that it really looks powerful with its red and black finish. The card faithfully follows the AMD reference card in all aspects. This is a big card, the length is 240 mm and it takes up two slots. The fan is a 70mm and I hope it will not bee too noisy, but looking at the rather small air exhaust in the back of card, I don't feel overly positive.

The front of the card holds two 6 pin PCIe connectors which would theoretically provide 150W to the card. Although I wanted to take the cooler off and have a closer look at the PCB I decided to let go of that intention since I would have to loosen a multitude of screws and it was impossible to remove only the housing without also clearing the cooler itself, which felt a little too risky. A great thing about AMDs new cards is their connectivity. They include two DVI-I, a HDMI and a DisplayPort. With the ATI Eyefinity technology, it is possible to use 3 monitors simultaneously with this card, not bad.

MY TEST SYSTEM
OK, so here comes the list of the hardware components I used for this test:

Test equipment
Processor AMD Phenom II x2 550@3.9GHz
Cooler Zalman CNPS9900A LED
Motherboard ASUS Crosshair III Formulates
Graphics card ASUS EAH5850
Sound card Integrated
Memory Kingston HyperX DDR3 1333 2×2GB (7-7-7-21)
Hard disk Samsung SP2504C (SATA II, 7200rmp, 8MB)
Power supply Zalman ZM660-XT
Box Cooler Master 690 cm PURE

Operating system and software
Operating system Windows 7 64bits
System drivers BIOS 0805
Catalyst 9.10
DirectX August 2009
Benchmarks 3D Mark 06
3D Mark Vantage
Furmark 1.7
Unigine Heaven Benchmark
Games The Last Remnant
Tom Clancy´s Hawx
Street Fighter IV
They reside Evil V
Weak May Cry 4
Stalker Clear Sky
WEAPON 2
Officers' Club of Revolutionary Armed Forces Cry 2
Crysis Warhead
Other software CPU-Z 1.52
GPU-Z 0.4.5
OCCT 3.1

And here's the screenshots of my configuration:
The main changes in my test setup are that I have included the benchmark software "Unigine Heaven" and removed Lightsmark 2008. The main reason for this is that it enables me to compare the difference in performance between DirectX 10 and DirectX 11.

BENCHMARKING RESULTS
I will not compare these results to the result I have received in previous graphics cards reviews since my test system has been updated. I was very interested in what the performance comparison between DirectX 10 and DirectX 11 would produce. As you can see from the graphs above the results were opposite of what I had expected, the performance was actually lower with DirectX 11 than with DirectX 10.

GAMING TESTS I
It is interesting to note that the performance remains high even when adding filters. This is something that AMD has corrected from their previous series which really suffered when filters were added. Otherwise, same here; the performance is very good but I will not make any direct comparisons to previous reviews.

GAMING TESTS II
The second batch of games includes more demanding games as usual. This test clearly shows that the EAH5850 has a lot of power under the hood and it was only in two games where the FPS rate didn't hold steady above 30 FPS with the highest possible settings.

OVERCLOCKING, REFRIGERATION AND CONSUMPTION
On the packaging, Asus emphasized the "Voltage Tweaking" which is done with the Asus Smart Doctor software which also lets us modify the frequencies of both the core and memories.
It's a dream to work with Asus' tool for overclocking the card and it is impressive just how far this card can be clocked.
The cooling system of the card is very effective. The fan is noisy at full power but mostly it didn't bother me too much.
I measured the total power consumption of my system in idle mode and in full load, here are the results:
Clearly the difference is enormous and it should be since AMD's PowerPlay technology has drastically diminished the power consumption in 2D.

OVERCLOCKING RESULTS
OK, so here are the results from the overclocking tests:
The increase in the 3D Mark Vantage was truly impressive and this is also confirmed by the increase of 6 FPS in Far Cry 2 and the increase is there with filters enabled as well.

CONCLUSIONS
I must first praise AMD for the work they have done with this card. It is both energy efficient and a high performer, very impressive. Asus has taken AMDs reference design and added a lot of value to it with their smart technologies and software tools. The main advantage with this Asus card is of course its overclocking abilities which are nothing short of fantastic. ASUS EAH5850 is already on sale at a price that oscillates between the 0 and 0, which is very competitive given its performance, overclocking abilities and the fact that it includes DIRT 2.


Review of Asus Radeon HD 5850 1GB GDDR5 Graphics Card

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Wednesday, November 16, 2011

How to Build a Computer

!±8± How to Build a Computer

This tutorial is aimed at helping you to build your own computer. There are many different combinations of hardware you can have. we will deal with the basics to enable you to get a computer up and running.

Tools Required

Philips Crosshead Screwdriver, Overhead light source, Tweezers, Wrist strap to attach you to case

Hardware Required

PC Case, Floppy Disk Drive, CD Rom Drive, Hard Drive, Motherboard, Processor, Processor Heat Sink(fan), RAM, Power Supply, Video Card, Keyboard and Mouse

Software Required

Operating System, Drivers (come with hardware), motherboard CD

Cables and Extras

Drive Cables, Screws (usually with PC Case), CPU Cooling Compound, Power Cords for computer and monitor

Step 1...Install Power Supply Unit (PSU), CPU and Heat Sink on the motherboard

Remove the case cover by unscrewing the four to six screws and taking the cover off. Lay the case on it side with the metal back plate facing up to you. Some cases come with a preinstalled PSU others do not. To install a PSU slide the PSU into place with the wires facing forward into the case and the fan blowing out the back. Secure it in place with some screws so that it does not move. Set the voltage to 220 in the UK, 120 USA. The back plate may need changing to match your motherboard. To do this break off the old plate and take the new plate (packed with motherboard) and install it in place of the old one.

The motherboard should be sat on a secure surface in/on the antistatic bag it came in. To install the CPU make sure the lever on the motherboard is up (refer to the manual supplied with you motherboard to see how this is done) take the processor out of the box it came in by only touching the edges of the chip. Place this into the socket by matching pin 1 to the correct place on motherboard. Usually a gold arrow lines up with another mark on the socket. Once in place Push the lever arm down to lock the processor in place.

To install the Heat Sink/fan onto the processor, clean the processor with a lint free cloth to remove dust and finger oil. Take the cooling compound and squirt a small amount onto the processor directly taking care not to use too much as it may go over the edges. Spread this evenly over the surface of the processor. Take the Heat Sink and place it directly on top of the processor pushing down slightly to ensure good connection between the processor/compound and Heat Sink. Using the clips on either side of the Heat Sink secure this in place on top of the processor. Check that no cooling compound has leaked from the sides otherwise you have to start again and clean both the Processor and Heat Sink. Once the Heat Sink is in place plug in the power cord attached to it into the motherboard see manual suplpied with your motherboard to determine which one. This is step 1 complete.

Step 2...Install memory modules (RAM) and Motherboard into the case

To install the memory modules attach the antistatic wrist strap to an unpainted metal surface to earth yourself and discharge and static built up. On the motherboard you should see the slot for the memory module. Make sure the clips at either end are open i.e. tilted backwards. Pick up the memory module by the edges and place it into the slot by lining up the notches and making sure the both ends are in the clips. Push down firmly and the clips should pop shut. This is the memory Installed.

The motherboard should now have the processor, Heat Sink and memory installed. The motherboard can now be placed into the case. To install the motherboard into the case look at the holes on the motherboard and the holes on the motherboard plate in the case. Take the motherboard standoff screws and screw them into the motherboard plate in line with the holes on the motherboard. Once this is done take the motherboard and place it into the case with the inputs and outputs facing toward the back of the case. These should fit into the back plate of the case. Take some screws and screw the motherboard into the stand offs. Do not screw too tightly otherwise the circuits on the motherboard may break but enough so there is no movement. Step 2 is complete.

Step 3...Connect the Motherboard to the Case Wires and PSU

Now the motherboard is in place take the 20 or 24 Pin connector from the power supply and connect it to the motherboard. The board may also require a 4 Pin connector to power the CPU. Plug this in too. The case should also have a set of wires which will plug into the motherboard. refer to the manual supplied with your motherboard to install these correctly. Usually the connector labelled PWR_SW is the power switch and RST is the RESET button. The Power LED and Hard Drive LED must also be attached. Once all the connectors are connected move to Step 4.

Step 4...Install the Floppy Drive, Hard Drive and CD ROM Drive

To install the floppy drive choose which drive bay you want the floppy drive in and remove the face plate on the case. Slide the drive in from the front and make sure it lines up with the face plate as well as the screw holes on the mounting rack. Screw the drive into place. Connect the power supply to the floppy drive this is the smallest connector coming out of the PSU. Take the ribbon cable and attach it to the back of the floppy drive, this cable has a twist in it. Attach this to the motherboard lining up the red edge. If you do not line this up the drive simply wont work. When attached to the port on the motherboard the floppy drive is installed.

To install the Hard Drive determine which bay you are going to put it in. Slide it in from the back and match up the screw holes to the mounting plate. When this is done secure it in place. Attach the 4 pin Molex connector from the PSU to the back of the drive, it will only fit one way. If the drive is IDE it will have a big connector on the back, if this is the case take the ribbon cable and attach this to IDE 1 on the motherboard. If the drive is SATA the connector will be much smaller and the cable a lot thinner. If this is the case take the cable and attach it to the back of the drive then to SATA_1 on the motherboard. This is the hard drive installed.

To install the CD ROM drive this is very similar to the floppy drive. Choose which bay you want it in and take the face plate off. Slide the drive in from the front and screw it into place. Attach the 4 pin Molex connector as you did with the hard drive and then take the ribbon cable and attach this to IDE_2 on the motherboard. This is Step 4 complete.

Step 5... Install the Video Card

A video card is required so that you can see the output from your PC there are two types used older AGP cards or newer PCI Express Cards. To install a Video Card you should see a brown slot known as an AGP slot if you card is AGP then it goes here. Open the slot at the back of the AGP slot there may be a clip like with the memory modules, this is to support the card as they are now quite big. Break off the metal covering the hole at the back of the case. Take the video card by holding the edges only and slot it into this port and press down firmly, you should feel it click into place. Do not over force it as this may damage the circuits and your motherboard. Once in place secure the card by screwing it to the back of the Case you should see this on the metal plate at the back. Some Video Cards require additional power now so attach the 4 pin Molex connector to the video card. This is the Video Card Installed.

For PCI express follow above but use the PCI express slot instead.

Step 6...Initial boot up and configuring the bios

Well done you have now completed building you computer. It is now time to see if the thing works!!!

Plug in the computer and attach the mouse and keyboard. Before you hit the power button here is what to look for: The PSU and Processor fans Start spinning, The power LED comes on, The Hard Drive boots up. You may hear a bleep from the PC speaker. If you hear multiple beeps this means there is an error somewhere. If there are strange grinding sounds then turn off the computer immediately.

Turn on the computer, if you see the bios screen hit the appropriate key to enter the bios and check if everything is working properly. If this is the case then set the boot device to CD. Congratulations you have now completed building you computer.


How to Build a Computer

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Friday, November 4, 2011

Build DIY PC - PC Assembly Made Easy

!±8± Build DIY PC - PC Assembly Made Easy

When you have the new PC components items available, next step is to Assemble the PC together. This is the most interesting part and also the most rewarding part when your system is up and running, all credits to Yourself!!

Essential Tools required:

1) A screwdriver (Cross-shaped)

Optional Recommended Items:

1) Torchlight (To illuminate hard to see areas)

2) Antistatic wrist strap (To discharge of any static charges)

Let's start now. Firstly, discharge yourself of any static charges by touching the metal casing or attaching the other side of the antistatic wrist strap to the metal casing.

1) Open the case

2) Install the motherboard

Find the motherboard standoffs that should have come with the case. Insert the I/O Shield that came with your motherboard. Now locate the screw holes on your motherboard and find the corresponding holes on the motherboard plate (or tray) in the case. Put a standoff in each of these holes on the tray and position the motherboard so that you can see the holes in the top of the standoffs through the screw holes in the motherboard. Now fasten a screw through each of the motherboard screw holes into the standoffs underneath. These screws should be snug but not tight. With the motherboard in, we are now able to start adding in other components.

3) Install the CPU.

As I mentioned earlier, the processor (CPU) and motherboard go hand-in-hand, so you should spend some time planning and researching what you really desires and buy compatible CPU / motherboard components, just like the importance of buying the right shoe size for yourself. Given that this is a minimum system upgrade, you are saving up quite a bit through reusing other components; I suggest you build a better performing system so that it can serve you for several years to come.

Before start, please read the manual provided with the motherboard/CPU carefully, understand the different parts, and the installation diagrams before proceeding. Then again, it is not very difficult with only 3 simple steps to success.

1st step to success: Install the CPU

I will be using Intel Socket 775 as illustration as it is the latest socket used so far.

-Remove the protective socket on the new socket protecting the pins

-Open the lever and lift up the metal flap so as to install the CPU

-While carefully holding the CPU at the edges, look for the notch in the corner and match it up with the socket. Slowly lay down the CPU in the socket, before lowering the metal flap, and closing the socket lever to secure the CPU.

2nd step to success: Install the CPU heatsink

If you like to go to a cool place to enjoy some aircon when you are hot, the same can be said of the CPU which you have just installed. We need to dissipate the high heat generated by the CPU so that it would not overheat and fry.

-I am recommending getting hold of some thermal paste which you can apply evenly on the CPU surface for better heat conductivity and dissipation. (To note: Intel® boxed processor already come with their integrated thermal solutions, and so does not need extra efforts)

-Align heat sink onto the Socket containing the CPU, with the fan cable orientated closest to fan power connector, and check for any entanglement.

-Press down on fastener caps with thumb to install and lock. Repeat with the other 3 fasteners.

3rd step to success: Power up the heat sink

This is done by connecting the fan cable from step 2 to the CPU_FAN connector located on the motherboard, which is located very close to the CPU. Tie up excess cable to prevent interference with fan operation or other components.

Congrats, by the time you finished this, the rest should be a breeze already =)

4) Install the Memory

With a new motherboard and faster processor, we will then need more RAM (random access memory) to enable and facilitate this faster performance. Again, you should spend some time planning and researching on memory which is compatible with the new CPU and motherboard you have installed to bring out the best overall performance. To install the RAM modules, you need to unfasten the clips located on each side of the memory slot. Align the RAM module in the socket, such as to match the indent located on the memory chip and the memory slot, for the right facing direction. Push down on the memory module until both clips refasten and a click sound is heard. To change memory, simply press down the both clips at the same time, and the RAM will come out easily.

TIP: Start adding RAM at the slot labeled "Bank 0" or "DIMM 1". If you don't, the system will think there is no memory available and wont boot.

TIP:For newer systems supporting hyper treading technology, you are encouraged to use the dual channel memory functionality by placing 2 sticks of the same memory on alternate slots (i.e.: slot 1 & 3 or Slot 2 & 4, often differentiated by color as well. ) This has been proven to enhance the performance as well.

After installing the new motherboard / CPU, and memory, you are already DONE installing the New essential items you have bought. YEAH!! Now that is left is to migrate the remaining items from the old pc to your "Brand New" PC. =)

5) Install the Power Supply

There will be a bracket at the top of the case where you can mount the power supply, and secure the power supply using screws. The power supply will consists of the following connectors: ATX power connector, ATX_12V connector, IDE power connector, and FDD power connector. Look for the 20 or 24 pin ATX power connector, and plug it into the motherboard allocated power slot. There may also be an additional four or eight pin power lead on the motherboard that needs to be plugged in, which is usually located near the processor socket. Do double confirm with the motherboard manual for details.

TIP: You might want to consider getting a new power supply which rating is at least 300W so as to support any future upgrades you have in mind.

TIP: You need to select the right power supply settings (115v or 220v) depending on your country settings. For newer power supplies, it is equipped with automatic detection, so that will not be an issue at all.

6) Install the Floppy drives/Hard-disks/DVD writers

Floppy disks, Harddisks and DVD ROM/writers communicate with the CPU through data cables commonly called FDD/IDE cables, although newer harddisks now connect via SATA cables for faster data communications.

Note: FDD Cable for floppy disk drives appears smaller and has fewer wires.

Note: Using multiple hard disks If you have intention on using multiple hard disks, you must adjust the settings on the multiple disks to inform the computer system which is the main disk and the other supporting/additional disks. If not done properly, the system can get confused, and the disk may not boot at all. Do read the simple instructions as shown on the harddisk surface for the right way to place the jumpers so as to distinguish between the master drive (main operating system) and the slave drives (other files/documents). This instruction varies across different harddisk manufacturers. This configuration should be done before inserting the IDE cables.

First, remove the front casing of the computer, and remove the 5.25" plate so as to expose the front of the DVD drives later. Similarly do it for the floppy drive plate. Insert the IDE cables into the floppy drive/ harddisk/ DVD data connector noting the orientation of the notch in the centre, so as to insert in the right directions. The remaining connector is to be connected to the motherboard. Next, to power up the drives by plugging in the 4 pin molex power connector from the power supply in step 5 into each hard drive and optical drive. For the floppy drive, the power plug is also 4 pins in a row but significantly smaller than that of the hard disk. Need to take note of the power connector orientation as well.

Final securing all disks and optical drives with screws before securing back the front casing cover.

TIP: Recommend that the IDE hard disk be connected to the IDE 1 connector and the optical devices connect to the IDE 2 connector. Maximum of 2 IDE devices per IDE connector. If using multiple IDE hard drives, you should enter BIOS later on and set their boot sequence accordingly.

7) Install the Video Card

For older motherboards, we typically see AGP video card being used, which will be installed onto the AGP socket, which is often brown in color. For newer systems, PCI Express video cards are more commonly used due to better data transfer performance and better resolution performance. Both AGP and PCI Express slots can be identified easily, and is usually located adjacent to the CPU unit.

Now, insert the card into the slot with some force, and check that it is fully inserted with no protruding edges, before screwing it in at the top of the metal bracket. If it has a power connector, connect it with a 4-pin molex connector.

8) Remaining Internal Connections

-Connect the audio cable from the DVD to the motherboard CD_IN connector (if required)

-Connect the power/reset buttons, and signal indicators (those external blinking lights) to the F_Panel connector on the motherboard. (i.e: Power indicator, hardware indicator, internal speaker, etc...). Read individual motherboard manual for clearer inserting of these signal connectors.

-Double check on proper power connection to all hardware components

- (Optional) Install extra items such as front mounted USB, firewire and/or sound ports.

At this point We are 90% done with our DIY PC Assembly already !! Do not put back the casing covers as yet.

9) Final External Connections

-Connect back the outer devices including items like

a) Keyboard

b) Mouse

c) Monitor

d) Printer / Scanners

e) Speakers

f) External power supply cable

10) Bring on the POWER!!

This brings us to the last stage of the PC assembly process. If you have done everything right, now is the time to sit back and savor the fruit of success.

With the casing still open, and all external peripherals connected, turn on the computer and observe for any abnormality such as fan not spinning, or beeps alarms from the PC. If so, turn off the power and spend some time checking through the connections, and also the manual for some tips on troubleshooting.

Well, if you observed no abnormality till far, and you have seen the splash screen from the motherboard, CONGRATULATIONS!! You have succeeded in building your own PC in this PC Assembly DIY guide by flashG.


Build DIY PC - PC Assembly Made Easy

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